‍What are growth factors and what is their function in skincare?

Growth factors are naturally occurring proteins that enable cells to communicate with one another. By binding to specific receptors on target cells, they deliver “instructions” that can prompt those cells to carry out specific functions. For example, fibroblast growth factor (FGF) stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen, while epidermal growth factor (EGF) supports skin cell growth and healing. These messenger molecules have been used in skincare for many years because they help boost the skin’s own production of collagen and elastin—two key components that maintain firmness, elasticity, and overall skin quality. There are a variety of different cellular sources that skincare manufacturers use to harvest growth factors, and that source plays an important role in what message will be delivered and the quality of that message. 

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What is the difference between growth factors and exosomes?

There are a few different ways to influence our cells to carry out a desirable outcome. Broadly speaking one of those ways is through “biochemical cues” – a type of message with a set of instructions. Within this umbrella term of biochemical cues you have different types of cues: growth factors, peptides, and exosomes just to name a few. Growth factors are one type – a protein-based signal that binds to a cell’s receptor to prompt specific actions, like producing more collagen. Exosomes, by contrast, are more like “packages” of multiple signals. They are naturally occurring packages (called extracellular vesicles) released by cells (often stem cells found in sources like fat or placenta) and contain a mix of growth factors, peptides, lipids, RNA, and other instructions. If you imagine a stem cell as a delivery truck, the exosome would be the carefully packed shipment on that truck. What matters most is the “cargo” inside the exosome: the collection of signals that can help target cells repair, regenerate, and function optimally. 
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What are the major benefits of using a growth factor serum? Are they suitable for all skin types? 

I generally recommend that anyone over the age of 35 consider incorporating a growth factor serum into their skincare routine. Around that age, collagen production declines, and cumulative sun exposure begins to break down elastin and hyaluronic acid at a faster rate than we make it. Growth factor serums help stimulate the skin’s natural ability to restore and rebuild these essential components, which can lead to improved texture, firmness, and overall skin quality over time.

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What are our favorite growth factor serums to recommend?

‍Plated Skin Science, Daily Serum and SkinMedica TNS, and Alastin Restorative Skin Complex - Peptides are our favorite and most commonly recommended serums.

Plated Intense (Exosomes): This is our go-to product for post-procedural care and daily use alike. Patients appreciate its nourishing, calming effects, especially following energy-based treatments. It supports healthier, more resilient skin and works beautifully as part of a comprehensive skincare regimen.

SkinMedica TNS (Growth Factors): This is the iconic, “hero” product in the growth factor category and remains one of the best options available. Suitable for all skin types, it boasts outstanding clinical data supporting improvements in sagging along the jawline and tightening around the eyelids. It’s a product I rely on every day.

Alastin Restorative Skin Complex - Peptides

Another one of our favorites. The peptide formulation from Alastin is safe for all skin types and something you can use every day. It has anti-aging properties that dovetails nicely with TNS. 

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What should someone consider when looking for a growth factor serum? Maybe in terms of ingredients to look for or avoid?

Look for products supported by solid clinical research, ideally with results published in peer-reviewed journals. Many brands make claims, but few invest in the rigorous testing that yields substantial, credible data. Both Plated and SkinMedica, for instance, have conducted high-quality clinical trials with impressive short- and long-term results.

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What are the most common ingredients on a product label that signal a product contains growth factors?

When reviewing product labels, terms like “human fibroblast,” “growth factor,” or “human-conditioned media” indicate that growth factors are present. For exosome-based products, the word “exosome” should appear clearly in the ingredient list.

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How do you recommend using a growth factor serum for optimal results?

Growth factor and exosome serums should always be applied to freshly cleansed skin as the first step in your skincare routine. Best practice is to allow these products to dry for a few minutes before proceeding with the next product application.

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